Hello fellow makers!
This is Marta from @the.pickle.and.the.banana on Instagram and I'm hanging out here on the G+G Blog today to show you my Riot and Edgy pattern mash. This is a fairly simple mash but I really love the results!
You will need to grab your two patterns, the Riot Skirt https://georgeandgingerpatterns.com/products/the-riot-skirt-set-womens-sizes-pdf-sewing-pattern/?aff=51 and the Edgy top https://georgeandgingerpatterns.com/products/the-edgy-top-womens-sizes-pdf-sewing-pattern/?aff=51(these are my affiliate links and if you use them I get a small commission).
I am going use a very stretchy fabric for dress (can I get a high five for Walmart 5$ for 5 yards precuts?), which is why I'll be doing a casing when I join the top and skirt. If you are using something like cotton lycra or scuba or liverpool you can get away without the casing and might just want to put clear elastic in the waist to reinforce the seam.
Here is what you will need:
*Elastic (choose any width you like, I use ½ inch)
*Sewing Machine (Serger optional)
*Scissors, clips, notions, etc
Cut out your top pattern. You can use whatever version of the top you like, I am doing the sleeveless, no ruffle version. You will want to cut your top shorter than normal. Where you stop depends on your preference of where you want the bodice to meet the skirt. I cut mine just as it starts to flare out for the hips. Also remember that you can choose which shoulder you want to expose. I wanted to expose my left shoulder (I don't love the tattoo on my right one as much ;) ) so I placed the pattern piece face down on the right side of my fabric for both my back and front pieces.
Then you can cut your skirt. I chose the knee length circle skirt, with pockets.
Because we are doing a casing some of the length of both the skirt and shirt will be taken away. This is why I added one inch of length on the bottom of my skirt. I just measured around with a ruler and marked it and then joined the markings while cutting
Once your top and skirt pieces are cut out, assemble them as per the pattern instructions. After both are finished you will place your bodice inside your skirt, right sides together, matching up the side seams.
Pin, or clip all around and sew or serge together. You can also choose to baste at this point if you are not confident about the length you cut your top, that way it's easier to take apart if you need to shorten your bodice.
Once you've attached the skirt and top you can try on your dress. If you are using a heavy, springy fabric like mine, you will notice that your waist seam is very low and the dress droops. This is why we are going to make a casing. The elastic will hold the skirt in place. Depending on the width of elastic you have chosen you can pinch your fabric together at the waist seam to see roughly where it will sit once the casing is done. If you would prefer it to sit higher, now is the time to take it apart and take a little more from the length of your top.
When you're ready to make your casing, flip the bodice back inside the skirt with the sewn seam at the edge. How far in you sew will depend on the width of the elastic you are using. I chose ½ inch elastic.
You want to make sure that there is enough space for your elastic to go through but that it will sit snuggly in the casing. Sew just a little wider than your elastic. I am making my casing ¾ of an inch. Sew all the way around.
Next, you will take your bodice out of the skirt and flip the casing up towards the bodice. If you flip down towards the skirt, you will have a more blousey look. Then sew very close to the edge of the seam allowance to create your casing. Leave a one or two inch opening to thread your elastic through.
To measure your elastic simply place it around where you want your waist to sit and cut one inch shorter. Now, the length and tightness of your elastic is all personal preference. It's better to cut it too long and take some length off later than have to rethread and cut a new piece. I always cut mine a bit too long and adjust later. I got tired of my safety pins opening in the middle of my casing and stabbing me so I bought this little Clover gadget on Amazon and I love it. It's bendy and holds the elastic tightly. My life is much improved.
Once your elastic is threaded through, overlap it and baste it together.
This is where the trial and error starts. I like to try the dress on, walk around a bit, and see how it feels and moves. If it's too loose, take the elastic out, cut some off, baste, and repeat. I ended up doing that three times with this one. And to be honest, I still haven't closed my casing.
I will wear the dress out in real life at least once and see how I feel before I commit to closing the casing. While being worn, the top covers the casing anyway, so you can't see that it's open.
Now it's time to hem your skirt (if you haven't done that already) and you're done! Hit the town in your fabulous new dress and when you get all the compliments you can proudly proclaim, “Thanks! I made it!”
Thanks so much for reading. I hope you enjoyed this little tutorial! If you decide to try this mash yourself please post in the G+G Facebook group and give me a tag @Marta Gloger, I'd love to see your creation!